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Mexico Route - following the Mayas & Aztecs

Dear globetrotters,

today I present you another continent: America. I am a big fan of Central & South America, so in my big holidays in 2019 I went to Mexico. In May (low season!) my travel buddy & I spent three weeks in a small rental car & drove from Mexico City across the country to Cancun.

After landing it immediately felt like coming home for me & that didn't change during the three weeks. I did not want to go back to Germany.

 

Who should travel to Mexico? People, which are interested in history & road trip fans who want to see something. The country has a lot to offer: Natural spectacles, fascinating masterpieces of the past and a life-affirming culture. Of course many people travel to Mexico to relax, but I think the country has so much more to offer.

 

Click here for information on costs, seaweed and safety

 

ROUTE - 3 weeks

Mexico City - Cholula - Puebla - Oaxaca - Sumidero Gorge - San Cristobal - Agua Azul - Palenque - Campeche - Uxmal - Chichen Itza - Valladolid - Tulum - Laguna Bacalar - Akumal - Isla Cozumel - Cancun

Day 1: Flight Munich - Mexico City

Depending on how flexible you are, you can fly cheaply in the low season. So roundtrip costed only 450 € with KLM & Delta.

 

Day 2: Mexico City: Chapultepec Park - Museio Antropologia - Palacio de Bellas Artes - Zócalo

Depending on the location of your accommodation, you can start with a relaxing walk in Chapultepec Park. High up you'll have a really great view over the whole city and can visit the Castillo. Next stop: The Museo Antropologia, which is huge and convinces with its artistic & historical diversity. By the way its easy to get from A to B by foot, with the subway or with Uber (except during the rush hours). Afterwards, a visit to the centre Zócalo is in any case obligatory. There is a colourful hustle and bustle and in the centre are  rests of a pyramid. We chose a café with a roof terrace & enjoy a great view for the price of a guacamole. The Palacio de Bellas Artes is also located right at the Zócalo & is recommendable according to the local people. Unfortunately we could not get in, as it was closed on this day.

 

Day 3: Mexico City: Teotihuacán - Basilica de Gaudalope

The Pyramid de Sol and de Luna in Teotihuacán are highly recommended. I would recommend you to visit the pyramids with a rental car. We didn't have ours yet & so we booked a driver/upper, which of course was very expensive. The best way to get there early in the morning is to climb the pyramids while the temperatures are still pleasant. Another advantage is that in the morning, you are relatively alone, as the tourist buses arrive later. The view from the Pyramid de Sol & also the buildings themselves are incredibly impressive. I think this was also the highest pyramid we saw during our holidays & one of the few ones on which you could climb up to the top. Therefore a must-seen! The driver showed us also the Basilica de Gaudalope. Over the years, the church has sunk to the front and is therefore completely crooked and sloping. Very crazy!

Day 4: Cholula Pyramid - Vulcan - Puebla

With the rental car you drive from Mexico City to Cholula (2h drive). In Choula there is a huge pyramid with a church on it's top. The church was built to show that the Spanish "are above the locals"...

The speciality is, that you walk a little bit through the inside of the pyramid. From the church you have an awesome view to the colourful city and into the distance. The pyramid is free on Sunday.

From Cholula we continued to Puebla, the city of angels. It was a Sunday & all the locals were out and met with family & friends. So we just enjoyed the atmosphere.

 

Day 5: Monte Albán - Oaxaca City

The street to Monte Albán caused some problems for our little car, as it had to struggle a bit with the height. But after 4 hours of driving we made it & reached an impressive city. 2000 m above sea level was the main center of the Zapotecs. I was fascinated by the size of the complex high up on the mountain, all the stones that had to be dragged up. Accordingly, the site is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Afterwards we spent the night in Oaxaca City. There are lots of restaurants and beautiful alleys that invite you to have dinner.

Day 6: Oaxaca City - Hierve el Agua - Tehuantepec

I really liked Oaxaca City. It also belongs to the world cultural heritage & justifiably so. Just stroll around and experience the Indian culture. Before the road trip continues you should visit the Culturas de Oaxaca. It offers a mixture of architecture, gardens, libraries and creative exhibitions. If you want to, you can stop at the tree of Tule on the way to Hierve el Agua. The tree is really huge, but not necessarily worth a stop. Therefore full speed ahead towards Hierve el Agua. This is already such a small adventure in itself, as the last kilometres lead along a very narrow and bumpy road, for which one you have to pay a kind of toll to the inhabitants. Well shaken we finally arrived & were rewarded with natural pools and great views. You can also swim in one of the pools. The off-season was also a good point for us here, as everything was very relaxed and not crowded. 

 

Day 7: Tehuantepec - Cañon del Sumidero - San Cristobal

From the intermediate station Tehuantepec it takes 4.5 h to the Cañon del Sumidero. There are many different boat providers that offer a tour (approximately 240 pesos) into the canyon. You sees black-headed vultures, crocodiles, monkeys and of course rock walls up to 1 km high. Afterwards we continued to the most popular city of all travellers: San Cristobal de las Casas. The city has a lot of original things, as some indigenous people still live here. There are thousands of small shops and restaurants. Due to the altitude it is relatively fresh & long trousers are not wrong. :)

 

Day 8: San Cristobal de las Casas

We also like San Cristobal so much that we used the whole day to stroll through the city. During the day we were almost the only tourists & could observe the life of the locals. We passed a market where all kinds of food is sold and tasted ourselves through crazy delicacies. We also visited the Museo de la Medicine de Maya, but it looks more like a herb garden than a museum. The museum might not have been worthwhile, but as we walked there & the museum is located at the edge, we saw all kinds of things. Among other things we bought a big, prickly fruit, only to find out that you can only eat it cooked... :D Oops.

 

 Back in the center we went to the chocolate museum & jade museum (about 60 Pesos). 

Day 9: Cascadas de Agua Azul - Palenque

In order to get to the Cascadas de Agua Azul (4 h drive), you had to drive on a (according to the foreign office) dangerous road (but there is no alternative route?). It was actually one of the most exhausting routes, as there were thousands of "bumpers" and therefore it was impossible to drive smoothly. But at some point you'll made it & there are the deep blue waterfalls (about 55 Pesos). In May there was not much going on, there were many parking spots and no crowds. We were simply impressed how beautiful nature can be, no matter at which point you watch the waterfalls: they are amazing. At the top I jumped into the refreshing water.

Short story about it: Shortly before the waterfalls we saw a string that was stretched across the road & hold by a little girl. We made an emergency stop and are shocked. The whole thing happened to us several times. The kids force the people to stop & want to sell something. We suspect that they will be forced by their parents. Very sad, because the kids actually deserve an education.

 

Day 10: Palenque - Campeche

Good morning Palenque! After an overnight stay in Palenque you can start punctually in the morning to the pyramids. Here we noticed for the first time a higher tourist volume & for the first time there are guides who want to sell they services. After some acclimatisation to the new conditions, we were of course fascinated by the different pyramids, which were again so different to the last ones. Somehow each pyramid has something special and unique. Here was it the jungle feeling. I felt like an explorer.

We continue to Campeche (5 h drive, by the way the longest distance). There I set off alone in the evening & I was completely thrilled by the atmosphere. At the restaurants the tables are simply put on the streets, there was a nightly market which invites to stroll. And for the first time I discovered homemade alfajores (cookies with caramel), which I loved in Argentina.

 

Day 11: Campeche - Uxmal

Campeche seemed to us to be one of the richer cities, it seemed to be very well maintained and had expensive parks etc. It is the first city at the sea & therefore invites to walks on the beach. Again I am on my own again & visit among other things also the remains of the fortress wall.

 

We drive to Uxmal and enter the "state" Yucatan. Actually we wanted to visit the pyramid and got a heart attack at the sight of the price (about 400 Pesos), we were not used to that by far. But in retrospect I can understand it, since Yucatan has the most tourists & somehow has to keep the facilities in good shape. Ultimate saving tip: Just visit the Light & Sound Show in the evening, there you get a few views of the pyramids and have a show in addition. During the day the Chocolate Museum (approx. 120 Pesos) is the better alternative. It is not a real museum but rather a great garden with animals and small huts where the history of the cocoa bean is explained. You also get a tasting & can watch live a rain ritual. 

Day 12: Uxmal - Kabah - Chichén Itzá 

After the beautiful light show in the evening, it is best to start after a relaxed morning in Uxmal in the direction of Chichén Itzá. But not without a detour to the Mayan site Kabah. For cheap 3 € you can even climb up the buildings and you are almost all alone. Thus we enjoyed the silence and could chat with a watchman who showed us a particularly large gecko (?). In the low season you get great accommodations for really good prices in the next proximity. For a change we stayed in a Hotel (Hotel Okaan) that I mention here specially because of its location in the middle of the jungle and specially the restaurant in the treetops. We had a relaxed afternoon break, but of course you can already use the time for Chichén Itzá, although there are a lot of tourists during the day (also in the low season). 

 

Day 13: Chichén Itzá - Cenotes Samuel & Xkeken - Tulum

Early in the morning we went to the pyramids of Chichén Itzá. To avoid huge tourist masses, you should definitely do the same! From 11 am the tourists stream onto the area & even any low season doesn't help. The reason for this is, that this is the only place of interest that is also visited by beach holidaymakers. 

Nevertheless the pyramid impresses with its shape and the size of the area. But we personally liked the less known places much more (e.g. Monte Alban, Kabah), as simply the respect for these buildings was higher. 

After this tourist attraction we continue to a Cenote. The choice here is huge & we chose Samuel & Xkeken, because the Cenotes were not as famous, but well rated. The entrance fee is about 6 € (120 Pesos) and you can swim in both. Here I rather let the pictures speak for themselves. In any case beautiful and a must-do in Mexico! 

 

From the Cenotes your road trip continues to Tulum. The "city" has totally inspired me. It is hip and has one cool hotspot next to the other. Of course there are also many hotels & you meet mainly other travellers, but Tulum is simply worth seeing. Since we were not on the way by car, we looked for a restaurant with a parking lot at the beach and could park for the price of one guacamole directly on the spot. (saving tip) With the purchase trick you can also go straight into the sea without having to book an expensive accommodation at the sea. However, it is very bad in Tulum with the sea grass, so swimming is not an option -> click here.

 

Day 14-15: Tulum - Laguna Bacalar

 

Again, you should start on time in the morning to visit the Mayan site in Tulum (75 Pesos, 4 €). Parking is much more difficult here. By asking we found an affordable (still 250 Pesos) parking lot within walking distance of the ruin. Here you have to be careful, because there are guys at each corner which wants to "help". 

 

Unfortunately we weren't early and had to share the place with other tourists. But Tulum is definitely one of the most special places, because it is the ONLY Mayan site directly at the sea. This feeling of standing directly at the sea and being surrounded by such fascinating buildings is very special. I think its the uniqueness that makes it so special. 

After the extensive visit of the Mayan ruins, a 2.5 hour trip awaits you. But with good music this is a pleasant ride and finally you will be rewarded with a beautiful lake at Laguna Bacalar.

Tag 16: Laguna Bacalar - Muyil - Akumal

 As nice as it is to relax a little at the lake, it is time to travel further. On the way back towards Akumal we discovered a small sign to a ruin and stop spontaneously. It is worth it! The ruin Muyil lies bent in the jungle and has the most beautiful pyramid we had seen in the whole holiday. Nature is reclaiming the area. Simply enchanting! The entrance fee is about 3 € and you are alone, as the site is hidden in the jungle. 

After the spontaneous stop we went on to Akumal. The beach is very famous for its many turtles, which we wanted to visit the next day.

 

Tag 17-18: Akumal - Isla Cozumel

Good morning Akumal! To get to the beach you have to pay an entrance fee (100 Pesos). After that, however, the disappointment comes, so I can NOT recommend Akumal to you. Of course, most people have noticed that there are many turtles there. To protect them (which is good!) you have to book a guide tour of about 50 € and you can only snorkel along a barrier rope. Of course it is a great feeling to see so many turtles in the wild and to watch them eating, BUT it was just a tourist attraction and I had the feeling to disturb the turtles. 

 

After the turtle swimming we went to the harbour of Playa del Carmen. There are few parking lots. We found a private parking place & in return we had to rent a scooter on the island from the brother of the brother (:D). But the price for the scooter was fair. With the ferry you get super easy to the island, which runs about every hour and costs about 40 €. With a scooter you can get from A to B in a comfortable and fun way and can circle the island. Most hotels are all-inclusive offers, but you can also find other accommodations. 

We decided to go snorkeling on the island. With the scooter we stop shortly behind the airport at a dirt road and jump into the sea. The sea is relatively wild and the cliffs are sharp-edged, but with a certain caution you can watch the most beautiful fishes in peace.

You can only get to the famous snorkeling spots as for example El Cielo ("the sky") by boat (approximately 50 €) in form of a tour, as the reefs are a national park. We invested the money and were rewarded with incredible, unforgettable views. We saw turtles, rays, starfish, fish and and and and... and and and...

Day 19-20: Isla Cozumel - Cancun

 The road trip is coming to an end after three weeks. With the ferry we went back to Playa del Carmen, picked up the car and went to Cancun.

Cancun has an international airport and so you can get back to Europe easy. Cancun itself is a matter of taste. One hotel bunker beside the other. There are also many clubs and bars. Cancun is for the Americans the party holiday location. Those who like party & co. are well served. 

For me it rather makes it easier to say goodbye, as Cancun was the place I liked least of all.